Walking Nakasendo: Edo’s Historic Trail

During the Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate established the Five Great Highways connecting Edo with the rest of Japan. The Imperial Palace today occupies the grounds of the former Edo Castle, once the residence of the Tokugawa shoguns.
O-Bansho & Hyakunin-Bansho
These historic guardhouses housed elite samurai responsible for protecting the shogun and the inner grounds of Edo Castle. Here, you can see surviving elements of the castle’s defensive architecture and gain a sense of life at the heart of the shogunate.
From the former castle grounds, we look toward the city once ruled from here and toward Nihonbashi — the starting point of the Nakasendo.

And so, our journey begins.

Our first destination is Suwa, the 29th post town on the Nakasendo and an important crossroads where the Nakasendo met the Koshu Kaido, two major highways during the Edo period.
As a major transportation hub, Suwa attracted many travelers and developed a thriving sake-brewing culture.
At a former samurai residence, descendants of the family can share stories of their ancestors and the history of the house, a rare opportunity to experience history through the people who continue to live with it.
Suwa is also home to Suwa Taisha Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest and important Shinto shrines, with origins connected to deities recorded in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters).

Before continuing, a visit to the shrine to pray for a safe journey, as people in the Edo period did, is highly recommended.

Narai is the 34th post town of the Nakasendo and one of its best-preserved historic settlements.
For approximately one kilometre, its Edo-period streetscape remains remarkably intact.
At the height of its prosperity, it was known as “Narai Senken” — Narai, the Thousand Houses, reflecting its remarkable scale and bustle. It is recognized as a Nationally Designated Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings and is considered the longest post town in Japan.

Situated before the formidable Torii Pass, Narai provided travelers with a place to rest and pray for safe passage through the mountains.

As evening falls, lanterns glowing beneath the traditional wooden eaves create a scene that evokes an enduring image of old Japan.

Nestled in the Kiso Mountains, Tsumago-juku is perhaps the most internationally famous of the historic post towns.
Its remarkable preservation was achieved through the determination of the local community, which established three principles: “Do not sell, do not rent, and do not destroy.”

Utility poles and overhead wires have been removed from view, while traditional buildings with the architectural features of Edo-period hatago inns line the historic street.
The result is an exceptionally immersive streetscape that allows visitors to experience the atmosphere of an Edo-period post town.

In 1976, Tsumago became one of the first places in Japan to be designated a Nationally Designated Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

Magome-juku is a distinctive “post town with a slope,” built along a steep stone-paved road following the mountain ridge, with traditional residences supported by stone walls on both sides.

The town is also the birthplace of Toson Shimazaki, one of Japan’s best-known modern literary figures. His former family home is preserved as a museum.

By the time we reach Magome, the enclosed mountain landscape begins to open up, offering a striking sense of space after the deep valleys of the Kiso region.

If you take the route from Kyoto’s Sanjo Ohashi Bridge toward Edo (Tokyo), this marks your first step onto the historic road as you head toward the Central Alps.